Bill Addison reviews the live-fire feasts at Maydan L.A. in West Adams
First-timers arriving at the West Adams complex that Rose Previte spent six years creating can be forgiven a bit of confusion if their destination is “Maydan.” Are you headed to the food hall, or the restaurant? Maydan Market is what Previte calls the whole of her incredible 10,000-square-foot project inside a former factory for the very niche specialty of coin-collector pages. Underneath its exposed beams of wood and steel, seven dining options now orbit a central hearth wrapped in bronze. For six of the vendors — serving cuisines that encompass regional Mexican, Thai and Cal-Med — the setup is casual. Settle at a tiled table, zap the QR code and scroll through menu pages. In minutes you can be twirling a fork around pad Thai from the team behind Holy Basil and then reach with both hands for a giant, crackling wedge of L.A.’s most celebrated tlayuda. Maydan L.A., on the other hand, is the market’s sole full-service restaurant, located in the back of the space. It’s partitioned by a long, tiled bar along the …

