What to taste, see and know at L.A.’s Maydan Market in West Adams
Lugya’h, the counter inside Maydan Market run by Alfonso “Poncho” Martinez and Odilia Romero, began opening Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays this month at 8 a.m. Their improvisational morning menu will draw from the cuisine of Oaxaca’s Sierra Norte and the Indigenous cooking of Martinez’s Zapotec culture. The anchor dish, though, is certain: breakfast tacos. All in on Maydan Market this week I demolished a plate of them last weekend. Breakfast at Lugya’h was a late development during weekly meals I’ve had at Maydan Market over the last few months. The thrilling, overwhelming possibilities kept me returning. It all came together this week in two stories in The Times: A review of Maydan L.A., the sit-down restaurant operated by the market’s creator, Rose Previte, and a ranking of my top 10 favorite dishes so far among the other six fast-casual operators occupying the 10,0000-square-foot space. When we reach the 2030s in nearly three and a half years, I’m betting Previte’s West Adams project will stand as one of the most important culinary arrivals during this fraught …


