This is very much inspired by the wood-roast chicken and bread salad at Zuni Café in San Francisco. When I first ate there, its then chef the late Judy Rodgers hadn’t yet written a cookbook, so I had to guess how to make it when I got home.

I use Spanish migas – chunky bits of bread that are soaked in milk and then fried – as they have a great texture, both crisp and soft. A key characteristic is a crispy-skinned chicken and only small chickens achieve that well.

Requires additional resting time