A soft breeze tickled the waters of Innominate Tarn, sending ripples dashing across the pool, bogbean and tussock grass dancing at its fringes. From my rocky perch atop Haystacks, I gazed down on Buttermere and Crummock Water glistening to the north, the round-shouldered hulks of Pillar and Great Gable looming to the south. A pair of ravens cronked indignantly, protesting against the intrusion on their eyrie; otherwise, stillness reigned. Bless you, Alfred Wainwright, I murmured, picturing the hiking legend whose ashes are scattered around this lonely tarn. And then, surprising myself: you too, Rishi Sunak. In very different ways, both had brought me to this most spectacular of Lakeland crags. Coast to Coast Wainwright walk map showing the route It’s a little over half a century since Wainwright, patron saint of fell walkers, sketched a line on the map linking the Cumbria and Yorkshire shores. Not, of course, at random. “The route follows an approximate beeline … from St Bees Head on the Irish Sea to Robin Hood’s Bay on the North Sea,” he wrote. …