Month: October 2024

A guide to Echo Park, Los Angeles: What to do, see and eat

A guide to Echo Park, Los Angeles: What to do, see and eat

For as long as downtown L.A. has been a bustling center for American business and trade, Echo Park has been its nearest escape. A slow walk down the neighborhood’s winding boulevards and up its remarkably steep hillside streets — if you dare — is the best way to take in one of Southern California’s first suburbs. Get to know Los Angeles through the places that bring it to life. From restaurants to shops to outdoor spaces, here’s what to discover now. The stately Victorian homes to which 19th century business leaders would retire after long days at their downtown offices are still intact, perched on the high ground above Sunset Boulevard along Carroll Avenue, with a few holdouts along its parallel streets. So is Keystone Studios, the world’s first enclosed film stage and studio and the birthplace of slapstick comedy, though it has since been repurposed as a public storage facility (not the worst case of historic preservation in Los Angeles). Even some of the first efforts to make Los Angeles a viable Anglo-American settlement …

8 Little Free Library walks around L.A., from Venice to Griffith Park

8 Little Free Library walks around L.A., from Venice to Griffith Park

• There are 1,600 Little Free Libraries — those book-filled boxes that allow you to grab or donate something to read — in L.A. County. • We rounded up 8 pleasant L.A. walks that will bring you by these outposts and show you a local neighborhood, too. Nestled among carefully landscaped front yards and tucked into unassuming corners of L.A.’s bustling street corners, a literary revolution is taking place in miniature. Little Free Libraries, those charming book-filled boxes perched on posts, have become landmarks for wanderers and bibliophiles alike across our sprawling metropolis. L.A. really is a walking city. Explore our ground-level guide to the people and places keeping our sidewalks alive. These tiny outposts operate on a simple directive: Take a book, leave a book. What started in 2009 as one man’s tribute to his mother in Hudson, Wis., has blossomed into a global phenomenon, with over 150,000 registered Little Free Libraries in more than 120 countries that have helped share more than 400 million books, according to the nonprofit of the same name …

Los Angeles’ Chinatown: A guide to the best things to do, see and eat

Los Angeles’ Chinatown: A guide to the best things to do, see and eat

After a late-evening Amtrak back to L.A., I rolled my suitcase into Union Station and spotted a display featuring historic photographs of businesses emblazoned with Chinese characters. It turns out, as I learned while reading the text, my feet were on the hallowed ground of Man Jen Low, a three-story chop suey-style restaurant that existed in the 19th century. Get to know Los Angeles through the places that bring it to life. From restaurants to shops to outdoor spaces, here’s what to discover now. “The neighborhood is gone, but the memories of the community remain,” read the display, part of an exhibit called “Where You Stand: Chinatown 1880 to 1939.” While L.A.’s Chinatown is now less than a square mile, snug between Elysian Park’s Dodger Stadium and neighboring Lincoln Heights, it used to be much bigger. For generations, it was home to families who struggled to find permanent housing elsewhere due to redlining laws. Over time, one Chinatown became three — Old Chinatown, China City and New Chinatown — and tourism became a key strategy …

Best things to do during a weekend trip to Buellton

Best things to do during a weekend trip to Buellton

It might be hard to believe, but this month marks 20 years since Miles Raymond — Paul Giamatti’s character in the 2003 Academy Award-winning movie “Sideways” — threw a fit about drinking Merlot. We all know what happened next: Merlot sales plummeted (and still haven’t quite recovered), Pinot Noir sales soared and the Santa Ynez Valley became a beloved destination for wine-focused getaways. The allure is understandable — it’s a relatively short travel time from Los Angeles and has a laid-back, approachable feel, a pleasing pastoral landscape and exceptional food and wine. A good bit of “Sideways” was filmed in Buellton, one of the Santa Ynez Valley’s six towns. It sits just off Highway 101, making it easy to bypass as you turn toward its well-branded Danish-themed neighbor, Solvang, to the east. This may be especially true now that Buellton’s famed roadside eatery, Pea Soup Andersen’s, shuttered in January just shy of its 100th birthday. I, too, bypassed Buellton back in May with my two teenage and pre-teen sons in tow. But they had no …

Homey yet sophisticated, Santa Ynez is a rural paradise

Homey yet sophisticated, Santa Ynez is a rural paradise

Before the classic 2004 film “Sideways” made the Santa Ynez Valley the Central Coast’s wine capital, these rolling hills were very much horse and cowboy country. Nowhere is that legacy more apparent than in the township of Santa Ynez, an unincorporated community that’s home to both a tiny village lined with Old West-style buildings and to the hills around Happy Canyon, which are dotted not only with world-class vineyards, but also with ranches and polo clubs. This area was originally home to the Chumash people (whose presence is most evident today at the Chumash Casino Resort, just outside downtown), then to Spanish missionaries and Mexican ranchers who took possession of large swathes of land after the missions were secularized. (The name of the valley and the town are derived from the old Santa Inés Mission.) Santa Ynez’s modern era began in 1882, when Bishop Francis Mora began selling what were essentially buy-one-get-one-free lots in a settlement amid the ranches. The town experienced a brief boom in the 1880s, but the Southern Pacific Railroad’s decision not …

The best staycations near L.A.: Idyllwild, Palm Springs, Ojai and more

The best staycations near L.A.: Idyllwild, Palm Springs, Ojai and more

When my wife and I want to escape the hustle and bustle of L.A., we usually head to a nearby campground in Angeles National Forest. When I asked her if she wanted to take a little staycation to a cute chalet near Idyllwild, she did not hesitate to affirm she would like to sleep on a mattress indoors. Hicksville Pines has 10 themed rooms to choose from, including Christmas Town, whose guests can dress up in a provided Santa suit and enjoy a fireplace; the Dolly, an homage to everyone’s favorite blond country icon, where you can play a themed pinball game (but promise not to take her man), enjoy Dolly Parton movies and sleep in a giant bed; and the Honeymoon Suite, where you can feel the motion of the ocean in the king-sized bed (regardless of what you do in it) and take a dip in the heart-shaped tub. We chose the “Nerds! Nerds! Nerds!” room that comes equipped with a Pong table (where I lost several times to my wife) and six …

“Shrinking” returns with a more assured and legitimately therapeutic second season

“Shrinking” returns with a more assured and legitimately therapeutic second season

Therapy rarely begins smoothly. Initial sessions tend to be colored by weeping, hesitancy and half-truths as the clinician and client get a feel for each other. You could say the same of many TV shows, but since we’re talking about “Shrinking,” surely you see parallels. Season 1 was all awkward introductions, with Jason Segel’s Jimmy Laird sticking his hand out for a nice-to-meet-you shake, with standard-issue TV wounded healer listed on his Hello My Name Is tag. Jimmy, our psychologist, is barely making it through talk therapy sessions because he’s not quite holding it together. We’re dropped into Jimmy’s life not long after his wife died, leaving him and their teen daughter Alice (Lukita Maxwell) to make sense of the unthinkable. At work, his mentor Paul (Harrison Ford) acts more like a father figure toward Jimmy, and his colleague Gaby (Jessica Williams), who was also Tia’s best friend, ends up sleeping with him. All this spins around Jimmy’s wild prescriptions to his most unstable patients, including Sean (Luke Tennie), a veteran whose tour in Afghanistan left him …

Unique tacos to try in Los Angeles from 101 Best Tacos guide

Unique tacos to try in Los Angeles from 101 Best Tacos guide

Guerrilla Tacos has always taken a boundary-pushing, L.A.-specific approach to tacos. Its name is a reference to the innovative strategies used in guerrilla warfare and the tenacity of street food vendors that persist in spite of threats from code enforcement. Founded by chef Wes Avila as a food cart in 2012, it grew into a truck the following year and the mural-bright Arts District restaurant followed in 2018, now helmed by owner Brittney Valles alongside chef Crystal Espinoza. Several of the OG tacos that earned Guerrilla Tacos a Bib Gourmand nod from the Michelin Guide in 2019 are still on the menu. The hard-shelled Pocho with ground chuck is a tribute to the “gringo”-style tacos that Avila ate as a kid, but the best option on the permanent taco menu is the sweet potato that veers into Peruvian and Mediterranean flavors with rounds of buttery, skin-on sweet potato, crispy corn, slightly sour feta cheese, chopped scallions and a thick, nutty almond-cashew chile sauce. It’s a symphony of textures composed with a Gustavo Dudamel-level of culinary …

10 spots that capture the spirit of the American Southwest

10 spots that capture the spirit of the American Southwest

Anyone who says the journey is the best part, not the destination, could have been talking about the American Southwest. It has so much geographic, topographic and demographic diversity that you want to stop in almost every town, eat at every restaurant or sometimes just stop and admire the beautiful skies, the stunning mountains, the sturdy plants. And then there are the people. Latinos have lived there for over 425 years. Some can trace their heritage to the Spanish settlers who arrived in New Mexico before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock. Others are just putting down roots. On my road trip to check in on Latinos during this election year, I wanted to see it all. I couldn’t, of course. But through 3,000 miles across seven states in seven days, I found so much beauty that I frequently forgot my original mission. Here are some of my favorite spots. Seven days. Seven states. Nearly 3,000 miles. Gustavo Arellano talks to Latinos across the Southwest about their hopes, fears and dreams in this election year. …

Best San Francisco restaurants and bars to try right now

Best San Francisco restaurants and bars to try right now

I’ve never subscribed to the “Los Angeles vs. San Francisco” competitive narratives, the ones that play off our obviously very different cities with broad, facile stereotypes. My brain fixates on dining cultures, and in some profound ways L.A. and S.F. fit together to fill in the Golden State puzzle. They big-picture complement each other. A few recent weeks in the Bay Area reminded me of what a culinary marvel San Francisco continues to be. Its latest generations of chefs, and diners, still produce winding lines for new spins on warming noodle bowls, season-driven pastries and bring-it-on takes of, say, retro Hong Kong-style black pepper steak sizzling on a fajita platter. (See: Four Kings.) Reservations for the most high-flying tasting menus are certainly easier to score post-pandemic, but despite the vagaries of the tech industry and tourism the region endures as the nation’s fine-dining capital. I know, I know, New York, New York: It has the talent but not the mind-blowing produce. The restaurants in this guide lean into my personal tastes. I have a relationship …