Whisky terroir explained – does place shape flavour?
Terroir – the wine world’s favourite way of saying something tastes like somewhere. It’s why Pinot Noir from Burgundy’s Cote d’Or carries subtle notes of red fruit and forest floor, while the same grape in Central Otago tastes brighter, louder and almost sunlit in its intensity. Terroir is the land’s signature, quietly signed onto a crop. Whisky, though, has been slower to embrace the language, despite being born from grain, water and wood. So why the reluctance? Mark Reynier, perhaps the whisky industry’s most outspoken champion of terroir, sees the resistance as largely cultural. “Firstly, terroir is a fancy French word with no adequate English equivalent. To non-wine drinkers it has an uncomfortable air of pretense, prejudice, and yahoo pomposity,” he said. “Secondly, it is an inconvenient truth for an industry that seeks homogenised, international supply. Local produce with provenance and identity then becomes nothing more than heretical.” Reynier’s perspective comes from a long career in drink. He spent 20 years as a wine merchant before leading the revival of Islay’s Bruichladdich in 2001 – …









