Sunscreen used to be viewed as an essential only for beach days – but over recent years it’s become clear that it’s one essential product to incorporate into your skincare routine.
But now we’re becoming more clued up on SPF, knowing the difference between mineral and chemical formulas can feel complicated and confusing.
Here, experts break down the real differences between mineral and chemical SPF – and what you should pick when it comes to protecting your skin and preventing premature ageing.
What’s the difference between mineral and chemical SPF?
At their core, mineral and chemical sunscreens work in completely different ways.
“Chemical filters work by absorbing UVA and UVB rays so that your skin cells don’t have to,” explains skincare expert and managing director of Ultrasun, Abi Cleeve.
“Mineral – or physical – filters work differently, creating a barrier on the skin so that UV rays find it harder to penetrate and cause damage.”
Dermatologist Dr Nora Jaafar says that mineral sunscreens typically use ingredients like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide to “reflect and scatter UV radiation at the skin’s surface,” while chemical formulas convert UV rays into heat, which is then released from the skin.
In other words – one absorbs, the other deflects.
Which is better for anti-ageing?
When it comes to preventing wrinkles, pigmentation and loss of elasticity, the type of SPF matters far less than how you use it.
“UVA rays are the primary driver of premature ageing,” explains Cleeve, noting that they penetrate deeply into the skin and are present year-round – even on cloudy days.
While both types of SPF – mineral and chemical – protect from UVA and UVB rays, chemical sunscreen often needs to be reapplied more regularly than mineral sunscreens.
This is because chemical filters can degrade as they absorb UV rays, whereas mineral filters are more photostable – though they are more easily rubbed off through physical abrasion than chemical SPF is.
Depending on your lifestyle – whether you rub your face more for example – can help determine what formula is best for you.
Murad City Skin Age Defense Broad Spectrum SPF 50, £69
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice + B5 SPF50+, £12.40 (was £15.50), Cult Beauty
Which SPF suits your skin type?
Another dependent factor on the SPF that is best for you may be down to your skin type.
For sensitive or reactive skin, mineral sunscreens are often recommended. “They are generally better tolerated […] because they are inert and less likely to sting or irritate,” says Jaafar.
However, they’re not without drawbacks. Traditional mineral formulas can leave a white or grey cast on the skin, particularly on medium to deeper skin tones – although newer tinted versions have improved this significantly.
Chemical sunscreens, on the other hand, tend to be more cosmetically forgiving. Their lightweight, transparent finish makes them easier to wear daily, especially under make-up.
Cleeve also points out that full mineral formulas can sometimes feel heavier on the skin.
“A physical barrier can prevent the skin from cooling naturally, which can trigger reactions like prickly heat in sensitive skin,” she explains.
Ultrasun Tinted Face Fluid SPF50+, £29
How to apply SPF properly
Mineral or chemical – even the best sunscreen won’t work if it’s not applied correctly.
“SPF should always be the final step of skincare and applied before make-up,” says Jaafar. This allows it to form an even protective layer on the skin.
Cleeve recommends applying it at least 15 to 30 minutes before sun exposure, ideally before leaving the house.
Make-up with SPF can be a helpful addition, but shouldn’t be relied upon alone. “It’s typically applied far too thinly to deliver the protection level shown on the label,” Cleeve says.
For top-ups throughout the day, SPF mists are perfect – especially over make-up – but should be seen as a supplement rather than a replacement for your initial application.
La Roche-Posay Anthelios Anti-Shine Sun Protection Invisible SPF50+ Face Mist, £15.20 (was £19), Look Fantastic
Which one should you pick?
So both mineral and chemical SPF can offer effective protection when used correctly, and both can play a role in maintaining healthy, youthful skin.
“Neither is categorically better, and the ‘mineral good, chemical bad’ narrative is an oversimplification,” explains Cleeve.
Both mineral and chemical SPFs have differing pros and cons, and some say mineral sunscreens are the more eco-friendly choice, as they use zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, which are less harmful to aquatic life than chemical filters like oxybenzone, octinoxate, and octocrylene, which could be worth bearing in mind if you’re heading into the sea.
In reality, the best sunscreen is the one you’ll actually use every day. Texture, finish and how it feels on your skin all play a role in that consistency and protecting your skin.
“A formula you’ll actually use consistently will always outperform one that sits on the shelf,” Cleeve says.
