At Mexican pop-up Hoja Blanca, find the most exciting cooking in Palm Springs
When Omar Limon serves tetelas at Hoja Blanca, a weekly pop-up held midweek at the sleek bar Truss & Twine in Palm Springs, he uses their pointy scalene-triangle shape as a central subject, guiding the viewer’s eye through a series of shapes and colors and contrasts. His plates stun you with their composition before they jolt you with their complex deliciousness. Seriously great Mexican cooking in Palm Springs Earlier this month, he stuffed a tetela made of blue-corn masa with creamy refried Mayocoba beans booming bacon and chorizo. Underneath: a lime-green puree of tomatillos and poblanos smoothed into a silky ring. Over top: a thin, precise square of fried pork belly, glazed with piloncillo and finished with a flurry of cotija. The food arrived on a mottled brown ceramic plate, its inexact edges forming something between a circle and an octagon. It had been chosen with intention to visually complete the layered geometries. Like a little kid touching a finger to a painting when the museum guard isn’t looking, taking knife and fork to this …
