Is Demna the Ryan Murphy of Fashion?
My mom first took me to New York in the summer of 2011. Naturally, we hit Times Square first—a perfunctory ritual for any virgin tourist. I felt like I’d stepped into a Nam June Paik video installation where competing billboard ads for American Eagle, Domino’s, and Glee coalesced into a chorus of commerce, hijacking my attention from all angles. I had found the control room of the monoculture. When Demna took over Times Square for his first Gucci cruise show this week, he clarified his intentions for reviving the brand: Gucci should be everything, everywhere, all at once, coming at you 24/7 in 8K and surround sound. He called the show “GucciCore,” and even from the livestream, the spectacle was awesome: a smirking Tom Brady garbed as a Gucci’d down leather daddy; Mariah Carey, Kim Kardashian, and Lady Bunny seated front row; 50 screens blasting ads for fake Gucci products. At the Italian label, Demna is evolving the populist approach to fashion that became his signature at Balenciaga. But this time he’s abandoning the high-minded …

