In the last 100 years, Paso Robles has been a hot springs retreat, a cattle ranchers’ town and a haven for upstart winemakers. And now, as a wine critic might say, it’s a startling blend, with overtones of rising ambition, widening recognition, Southern California money and booming weekend visitation. Around town, the winery count has passed 200, and many visitors are realizing that you can do much more than eat and drink well. That’s doubly true during fall harvest, when the local social calendar fills with special events. Once you’ve made the 200-mile drive up U.S. 101 from Los Angeles, you can hear jazz in a snug basement club, sleep in an elaborately customized shipping container, get champagne and caviar from two separate vending machines, and roar past vineyards in a motorcycle sidecar. No? Instead maybe tour a winery with its own railroad and airstrip (Halter Ranch), then stand on a hilltop at Sensorio among thousands of changing lights as oak trees loom in silhouette. Or you can stay focused on the grapes and spend …