Bourdain’s ’90s gangster novels couldn’t escape the kitchen
Before Anthony Bourdain became Anthony Bourdain, he was writing crime novels about cooks. That’s the strange pleasure of “Three Crime Novels,” a new collection of “Bone in the Throat” (1995), “Gone Bamboo” (1997) and “The Bobby Gold Stories” (2002), re-released this summer alongside the biopic “TONY.” I haven’t seen the movie, and I’m not particularly interested in reviewing it. What interested me was returning to these books and realizing how much of the Bourdain we came to know was already there. Bourdain was always a writer, and he understood early that food was one of the best ways to reveal people. The crimes in these books are often the machinery of the plot. But the restaurants, kitchens and meals are where Bourdain seems most interested in his characters. Food becomes a way to write about ambition, class, masculinity, addiction, resentment and tenderness without having to announce that’s what he’s doing. Tommy Pagano, the chef at the center of “Bone in the Throat,” might be the clearest example. Tommy is a good kid caught up in …



