America’s Convenience-Store Conundrum – The Atlantic
Robert F. Kennedy Jr. has a new rallying cry: Eat real food. It’s an intuitive piece of advice—snack on some grapes instead of potato chips, trade that microwaveable mystery meat for a grilled chicken breast. The tagline has accompanied the new Dietary Guidelines for Americans, the government’s official nutrition recommendations, which call for Americans to prioritize whole foods and limit processed ones. “It’s time to start eating real food again,” the health secretary said during a speech in Pennsylvania last week. The Trump administration has even launched a new website, realfood.gov, which welcomes visitors with an animation of a steak, a carton of whole milk, and a head of broccoli. The path toward Kennedy’s goal runs through an overlooked piece of the food landscape: convenience stores. The purveyors of late-night hot dogs, tins of Zyn, and countless varieties of gummy worms generally don’t sell a lot of “real food.” But in America’s food deserts, convenience stores are more than just places to pick up a snack—they’re grocery stores. The USDA estimates that tens of millions …