L.A.’s Korean barbecue landscape is vast and varied. Dozens of Koreatown restaurants specialize in meats for personal grilling, with a cooktop built into the center of each table for platters of (mostly) beef and pork in all their various cuts, providing theater and functionalism at once. It’s an essential, thrilling Los Angeles dining experience. Each K-barbecue restaurant has its own take on what must be one of the best full-tilt ways to share a meal — primal and modern, elemental and lavish, continually changing. New restaurants serving Korean barbecue open apace in always-transmuting Koreatown, and the latest include K-Team BBQ, the new Park’s BBQ sibling on Vermont Avenue, and Origin, which has taken over the Chapman Plaza location of Baekjeong (expected to resurface in a palatial L.A. flagship later this year). But long-standing icons keep diners coming back for their charcoal-fueled grills, attentive service, signature cuts or AYCE combos. “Korean barbecue is becoming more like just regular barbecue” in its prevalence, said Jenee Kim of Park’s BBQ. “It’s not a Korean[-only] restaurant anymore. There’s other …