Often, it is simplicity of Iranian stews like this that make them so very good: the few ingredients all leave their impression rather than getting lost in a more complex festival of flavours. All you have to do is take time to do the few things well – don’t rush the onion, don’t cook the rhubarb too long: let the gently sour pomegranate molasses and rhubarb sing. By all means, eat this with rice or flatbreads instead of cauliflower if you prefer. And if there’s any left over, it makes a fine breakfast, on toast.

Recipe from Sour by Mark Diacono (Quadrille, £25). Order your copy from books.telegraph.co.uk