Stronger champagne, bitter lettuce and eight other ways heatwaves are changing food
Sign up to IndyEat’s free newsletter for weekly recipes, foodie features and cookbook releases Get our food and drink newsletter for free Get our food and drink newsletter for free France spent much of the summer learning that there are limits to what even French food law can withstand. After five bouts of extreme heat and a harvest almost two weeks earlier than last year, Champagne has had to relax one of its more sacred rules: some wines from the 2026 vintage will be allowed to reach 15 per cent alcohol, up from the usual limit of 13. Not every bottle will suddenly arrive with the clout of a Californian red, but the direction of travel is striking. Maxime Toubart, co-president of the industry body Comité Champagne, has warned that this “unusual harvest will probably become the norm in 10 to 15 years”. Grapes of wrath: heatwaves in France have led to an ‘unusual’ harvest (AFP/Getty) Hot, dry weather pushed grapes to ripen unusually quickly and left them richer in sugar. Yeast turns sugar into …

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