Fenix, a new Greek restaurant on Piccadilly in Mayfair, is very much part of what I’m calling the “maximalist” group of modern openings. See also Lilibet’s and Simpson’s-in-the-Strand. Financial downturn? Never heard of her. The Guardian’s journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. Learn more. While restaurateurs are all over the media turning out their empty pockets and pleading poverty, this new offshoot of a Manchester institution casually throws down another Sims-style pleasure palace. The photographs of the sumptuously ornate, Athenian-influenced interior can’t be real, surely? Well, it turns out they are. As you leave six lanes of moving traffic behind you and enter Fenix, eureka! You’re suddenly in a cross between an Aegean god’s haven and the White Company’s bedding department. Why am I surprised? After all, the place is run by the people who opened Tattu, the six-strong chain of equally flamboyant Chinese restaurants owned by brothers Adam and Drew Jones of the Permanently Unique group. Kitsch, chaotic and turning a tidy profit, they are …