What Patek Philippe Does Way Better Than Any Other Watchmaker
Welcome to GQ’s 201-level Watch Glossary, breaking down the advanced terms and specific references that are essential knowledge for every serious collector. In 1941, in a show of Katie Ledecky-style dominance, Patek Philippe became the first to release a serially produced watch that combined two of the trickiest functions in watchmaking: the perpetual calendar and a chronograph. In the 85 years since, the brand has perfected this alchemy, and examining the many iterations of this watch is a crash course in how the watch industry has functioned and what collectors have sought out over the decades. Ref. 1518: The breakthrough (1941) The ref. 1518 was only produced in roughly 281 examples, but it started a long lineage of signature pieces at Patek Philippe and laid the foundation for a series of timepieces that remains an important component of the maison’s Grand Complications to this day. Constructing a perpetual calendar is difficult enough: the gearing necessary for a mechanical object to track months (let alone years) of different lengths is difficult to synchronize and miniaturize, and …






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